Chicago Magazine
May 2008
21 Best New Restaurants
By D.R.W.

Are the chemistry and physics experiments at moto too precious for you? Then try sibling OTOM (clever name, pronounced “autumn”) a few doors down, where the former moto sous-chef Daryl Nash uses a bit of molecular gastronomy sensibility to good effect with comfort food. It’s a cool space—bright stripes, exposed brick and purse hooks on the tables. But the menus is equally cool, with stand-outs like a cast-iron pot of macaroni and cheese with truffled white Cheddar and double-smoked bacon or a cubed salmon ceviche on won ton chips with citrus bubbles. Move on to seared quail with sesame puffs and maple-soy glaze. Not exactly comfort food, but who cares?

SHOWSTOPPER: A “banana split” of puréed banana squares coated with chocolate and impaled on three sticks, each topped with roasted pineapple, house-made maraschino cherries or peanut praline.
SURPRISE: Orange plastic chairs turn out to be quite comfortable.
ANOTHER FAVORITE: Thai curry mussels topped with snap pea froth and toasted coconut.
BOTTOMS UP: Stellar cocktails, especially the Trabucchi de Verona martini made with homemade huckleberry vodka, Valpolicella and lemon juice with muddled huckleberries.